Once upon a time, in the vibrant city of Krakow, there was a market known as Rynek Kleparski, popularly referred to as the Stary Kleparz. Let me tell you, it’s not just an ordinary market; it’s the oldest functioning market in Krakow, established in the western section of a now-vanished city’s marketplace. Many wanted to transform it into a grand square, but the resilient tradition and customs of the Cracovians stood firm.
If you like visiting old squares I suggest you also read this article about all of the squares we have in Krakow.
Old Kleparz in Kraków – Journey Through Time
I think it’s worth mentioning how this iconic market’s story began. The tale of Stary Kleparz dates back to the 12th century. If you’re a history buff, you’d be thrilled to know that the Kleparz was founded by none other than the Duke of Krakow, Casimir the Just, and Bishop Gedko. In 1184, they decided to bring holy relics back to the capital. There’s a bit of a historical mix-up here, though.
The relics of Saint Florian of Lorch, supposedly secured from Rome, were meant to be delivered to the Polish embassy by Pope Lucius III. However, Pope Lucius III was actually at odds with the Roman Senate and was residing in Verona, not Rome. Instead, we ended up with relics that were highly esteemed in places like Ravenna, Bologna, or Modema. And the life of our revered saint? It appears to be a mishmash of various saints’ biographies. But, this didn’t stop them from erecting a temple in his honor outside the capital city.
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How to Find Best Place to Stay in Krakow Old Town – Your Guide
A Settlement Takes Shape
In the shadow of this new temple, a settlement began to spring up. But being there, you need to know it didn’t have the best luck. The settlement fell victim to three Tatar invasions and was obliterated each time. But, every time it was brought down, the people rebuilt it, and by the early 14th century, they were calling it „alta civitas”.
In 1366, King Casimir the Great bestowed town rights upon the settlement, implemnting the Magdeburg rights. They christened the town Florence, after the patron of their local church. Yet, the name didn’t stick, and by the 15th century, people commonly referred to it as Kleparz.
Governance and Growth
In Kleparz, the city council held administrative power, while the judiciary system was managed by the office of the vogt and juror. Following the law of the land, Kleparz was blessed with a vast market square at its heart. I can tell you, Kleparz’s market rivaled the size of the one in Krakow. The town’s central feature was a town hall building, already noted as early as 1465.
Yet, just like the city, the town hall faced many trials. It was ravaged during the invasion of Archduke Maximilian Habsburg in 1587, the Swedish Deluge in 1655, and the Confederation of Bar in 1768. But each time, it rose from the ashes. After the last conflict, it was reconstructed as a one-story brick building with a wooden tower. Quite the resilient icon, don’t you think?
The Charm of Stary Kleparz
Stary Kleparz, unlike many cities, had no walls. Its boundaries were fluid, and this was no mistake. Being surrounded on three sides by the Vistula River’s backwaters, Krakow was only vulnerable from the north. So, Kleparz stood as a potential frontline for the capital’s defence. This city was a haven of bourgeois and noble mansions, providing a summer retreat for those escaping the heat and congestion of the capital.
For those who didn’t make it back to Krakow before nightfall, Kleparz offered numerous taverns for an overnight stay. I know you’ll appreciate the charm of this city, it was predominantly made up of wooden buildings. Back during the four-year parliament era, the city boasted 120 buildings, of which only 17 were brick, housing up to 750 people according to the time’s inventory.
Growth and Evolution
Interestingly, in its independent history, Kleparz never exceeded a population of a thousand. Following its incorporation into Krakow in 1791, the marketplace began to lose its significance, even though it was still renowned for its impressive horse fairs across Galicia. The solitary town hall, once standing proudly in the market square, was eventually torn down.
By the 1860s, an urban concept was formed to divide the Kleparz market square into two. One would continue to function as a market square, which still operates today as Stary Kleparz. The other would be a representative square, later known as Matejko Square.
However, it wasn’t until 1877 that these plans came to fruition. At this time, construction started on the neo-gothic municipal school building designed by Maciej Moraczewski, and the School of Fine Arts also by the same architect (1879). A decade later, the next building of the Railway Directorate was completed.
Here is a table with few historical events that took place at the Old Kleparz Market in Krakow:
| Year | Event |
|---|---|
| 1367 | The first mention of the Kleparz market in historical records |
| 1496 | The market was destroyed by a fire |
| 1555 | The market was rebuilt and expanded |
| 1655 | The market was destroyed by Swedish troops during the Deluge |
| 1817 | The market was renovated and expanded again |
| 1941-1945 | The market was closed during the Nazi occupation of Krakow |
| 1950s | The market was modernized with new stalls and buildings |
| 1990s | The market underwent another renovation and restoration |
A Mix of Old and New
Amid the construction of these modern, representative buildings, the market square (now known as Rynek Kleparski) remained surrounded by one-story houses that hosted a range of dubious inns. By the late 1890s, change was afoot as several new two-story tenement houses were erected on the western frontage.
During the 20th century, there were plans to move the market to a newly established square, called Nowy Kleparz. The old market square was intended to become a green, park-like space serving as a representative square. However, I can tell you, the centuries-old tradition had its own way.
Recasting Stary Kleparz for the Future
The Kleparz Market Square underwent a major renovation only in 1993. Regrettably, the changes were not for the better. The vibrant colors of the old marketplace faded as cobblestones were replaced, alleys were laid out, and shapeless pavilions were erected.
Now, let’s explore the historical structures around the oldest market in Krakow. We’ll begin our journey from Saint Philip Street, named after a former church that once stood here. Unfortunately, like many other churches in Krakow, it was demolished during Austrian times.
Stories Embedded in Stone – Stary Kleparz’s Historic Buildings
Let’s go through some most important historical building in this district.
The Gem on Philip Street 19
Walking down Philip Street, you’d encounter buildings that tell a rich history. At Philip Street 19, the buildings of the missionary order and a small neo-Gothic church of Saint Vincent A’Paulo stand with grace. In 1861, the Missionary Priests settled in Kleparz. By 1863, they owned a plot of land on this street.
Their present church, a tribute to Italian trecento style – the style preceding the Renaissance era in Italian art and architecture – was built between 1875 and 1877. I think it’s worth mentioning
the beautiful main altar was brought from Vienna, and the church’s solemn consecration was performed on September 2, 1877, by Archbishop Lodovico Jacobini, the Apostolic Nuncio in Vienna.
This church has been shaped by multiple renovations, one of which was designed by Jan Sas Zubrzycki, who believed in the Vistula Gothic architectural style. In 1911-1912, the chancel was extended, a new sacristy was built connecting it with the monastery, and the chapel of Our Lady of Lourdes was added. The re-consecration occurred on November 1, 1912, by Kacper Słomiński, the visitor of the Congregation of Missionary Priests. The decor was changed later, and the church was consecrated again in 1936 by Bishop Stanisław Rospond.
Heritage Around Kleparski Market Square
The structures around Kleparski Market Square reflect a medley of architectural styles and purposes. At number 15, you’ll find a three-story house belonging to Jan and Franciszek Chlipalski, built in the late 19th century. The corner turret and facade lend the building a character of picturesque historicism.
Across at number 14, another late 19th-century construction stood as the property of Jan and Franciszek Chlipalski. Over the years, it served as a hotel, thus maintaining the area’s tradition. An interesting tidbit, one of the earliest representative buldings of Kleparz, the Lwowski Hotel, was located here during the Free City of Krakow era. The facade hosts a bas-relief of Saint Florian, a patron of firefighters, and the former city – Kleparz.
Where Art and Architecture Meet
Next, let me take you to Kleparski Market Square 13, the home of town councilor and architect Rajmund Meus. Unsurprisingly, he designed the building himself in 1895. The only one in the area with a red brick facade, it once housed Leon Wyrwicz, a renowned Krakow actor and monologist. Today, we’d probably consider him a pioneer of Polish stand-up.
As you move further along the western frontage of the square, you'll encounter tenement houses, which replaced wooden inns and inns from pre-partition times. These were built from the 1890s until the 1920s, and they are quite a sight to behold.
By being here, you need to know that each building, every stone, has a story. Stary Kleparz is more than just an old marketplace — it’s a living history book, ready to share its tales with anyone willing to listen. And believe me, it’s worth the time to listen.
An Exploration of History – The Iconic Buildings of Kleparz
Kleparski Market Square 11
Taking a turn at Kleparski Market Square 11, a corner tenement house (also located at 12 Krzywa Street) reveals a different architectural style. This structure is an example of modernist architecture. In an interesting twist of history, remnants of World War II are still visible in the façade — holes created during the shelling of the building.
Kleparz Market 5/ Basztowa 12
Not far from there, at Kleparz Market 5, Basztowa 12, until the end of the 1930s, a shop named „Pług,” which sold machines and agricultural products, found its home. Later, the Agricultural Syndicate took over the store for the „Jedność” cooperative. Following World War II, one of the area’s most popular milk bars was established here. Since 1990, the ground floor has returned to its commercial roots.
Rynek Kleparski 2/ Basztowa 15
Just off the Rynek Kleparski at number 2, Basztowa 15, stands a striking seven-story building. Built immediately after 1930 in the late modernist style, it features a two-story superstructure in the form of a corner rotunda. Initially, the headquarters of the Feniks Insurance Company, it now hosts the Krakow headquarters of PLL LOT Airlines. Following the Polish carrier’s relocation, the local tram stop, through residents’ votes, was renamed from „Basztowa-LOT” to „Stary Kleparz”.
After crossing Paderewski Street, which separates the Academy of Fine Arts and the railway management buildings, you’ll find yourself in the heart of the former Kleparz market. Known earlier as Targowisko, and then Adam Asnyk, it has been continuously patronized since 1912 by the pianist, composer and Prime Minister of the Second Republic of Poland – Ignacy Jan Paderewski.
Kleparski Market Square 19
The State Railways management building at Kleparski Market Square 19, is a sight to behold. Though we can only see the eastern façade, the representative one is at Jan Matejko Square. The building was constructed in a record time of 15 months between 1888 and 1889. Its creator remains a mystery, with some attributing the design to Maciej Moraczewski or Józef Niedźwiecki. It showcases the Viennese historicism style, intertwining elements of Neo-Renaissance and Neo-Baroque.
Kleparski Market Square 18
Moving along, the building at Kleparski Market Square 18 once housed the Faculty School named after Cardinal Zbigniew Oleśnicki. Designed by the same architect behind the J. Słowacki Theatre, Jan Zawiejski, the school was built in 1903. It was renowned for its high level of education and was wealthy, offering teaching aids for all subjects.
Tragically, the German occupation led to the school losing all property and being occupied. Post-war, it was renamed „School of the Friends of Children Society” /TPD/. Eventually, in 2002, it was named after Fr. Jan Twardowski following a referendum.
Exploring Kleparz gives a sense of moving through a live museum. Each corner, each building, is etched with fascinating stories that mark epochs in Polish history. This district is a testament to the enduring spirit of Krakow, the city that rose through varios eras and remains vibrant till today.
Kleparski Market Square 17
Our journey through the historic Kleparz continues at Kleparski Market Square 17. Positioned in front of a tenement house, constructed simultaneously with the faculty school, this location was once the site of the Kleparz town hall. This wooden structure served as the seat of municipal authorities and, according to records from 1465, it was later replaced with a brick construction.
The town hall, however, faced turbulent times during the fights for the Polish throne between Sigismund Vasa and Archduke Maximilian Habsburg in 1587, and was subsequently destroyed. It experienced a similar fate in 1655 during the Swedish invasion, and again in 1768 during the Bar Confederation.
Reconstructed as a one-story building, it lost its prominence when Kleparz was integrated into Krakow. Sold to private individuals in 1805, a modest burgher house was erected in its place. The remnants of the former municipal authorities’ seat were only discovered in 1906.
We then loop back to Saint Philip Street, from where our journey began. Here, nestled between buildings, we find the age-old market – the illustrious Kleparz, known for its horse fairs. This is where the historic Royal Route began, leading from the collegiate church of St. Floriana to Wawel, through Floriańska, Rynek, Grodzka, Senacka, and Kanonicza Streets. It was the path that Polish kings would traverse.
In recent history, especially after the challenging period post-1980, Stary Kleparz became the go-to place for obtaining otherwise hard-to-find products. It was here that one could buy veal, baby food, and exotic fruits imported from abroad. For essential shopping, Kleparz was the destination because it guaranteed the availability of necessary items.
The Kleparski Market was managed by the State Trade Agency until September 1, 1992, when the company’s board signed a lease agreement for the market square with the Management of the City of Krakow. This marked a historic decision for the Stary Kleparz market square. From that year, the Stary Kleparz Merchant Company has been maintaining Kleparz. The merchants leased the market, modernized it at their own expense, and renovated the square. Trading and shopping conditions have since changed significantly.
This modernization necessitated enormous resources from the trading merchant families. Seen as a way of securing jobs and continuing merchant traditions, these families have passed on their trade from generation to generation. Today, the fourth generation of merchants are trading in Stary Kleparz, with over 200 business entities operating in the market.
The Merchant Company has its own banner, consecrated on November 14, 1999, during the holy mass in the Basilica of St. Florian. Embroidered on one side of the banner is a merchant’s stall crowned, and on the reverse, the Mother of God of the Immaculate Conception holding a baby in her arms, the patron saint of merchants, and the coat of arms of Kleparz.
Conclusion
Old Kleparz stands as the oldest continuously operating marketplace in Krakow, Poland. With a tradition stretching back over 600 years, it offers an extensive range of local produce, apparel, and Polish souvenirs. Conveniently located just north of the Barbican and a short stroll from the Old Town Square, it is celebrated for its bargain prices and is considered the premier location in the city for local shopping. Once a small village, Old Kleparz has now become a neighborhood in Krakow, serving as the start of the historic Royal Road. Each step in Kleparz is a walk through a rich tapestry of history and enduring traditions.
Refences
- http://www.starykleparz.com
- https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g274772-d5551448-Reviews-Stary_Kleparz-Krakow_Lesser_Poland_Province_Southern_Poland.html
- https://www.inyourpocket.com/krakow/stary-kleparz_50185v
- https://www.spottedbylocals.com/krakow/stary-kleparz/
- https://donnagawell.com/europe/poland/travel-to-poland/practical-advice-for-krakow/stary-market-the-place-krakovians-shop/
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kleparz
